{"id":753,"date":"2009-03-20T13:04:33","date_gmt":"2009-03-20T05:04:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/?p=753"},"modified":"2009-03-20T13:04:33","modified_gmt":"2009-03-20T05:04:33","slug":"the-next-calvin","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=753","title":{"rendered":"the next calvin?"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a title=\"calvin klein (photo: tomas vrzala)\" href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/calvin.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"764\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?attachment_id=764\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/calvin.jpg?fit=260%2C400&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"260,400\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"calvin\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/calvin.jpg?fit=260%2C400&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-764\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/calvin.jpg?w=125\" alt=\"\"  srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/calvin.jpg?w=260&amp;ssl=1 260w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/calvin.jpg?resize=195%2C300&amp;ssl=1 195w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 260px) 100vw, 260px\" \/><\/a><a title=\"ralph lauren (photo: s9.com)\" href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/ralph.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"762\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?attachment_id=762\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/ralph.jpg?fit=260%2C400&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"260,400\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"ralph\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/ralph.jpg?fit=260%2C400&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-762\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/ralph.jpg?w=125\" alt=\"\"  srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/ralph.jpg?w=260&amp;ssl=1 260w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/ralph.jpg?resize=195%2C300&amp;ssl=1 195w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 260px) 100vw, 260px\" \/><\/a><a title=\"donna karen (photo: getty images)\" href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/donna.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"765\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?attachment_id=765\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/donna.jpg?fit=260%2C400&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"260,400\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;Getty Images&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;NEW YORK - APRIL 23:  Designer Donna Karen attends the Free Arts 8th Annual Art \\u0026 Photography Auction Benefit at Milk Gallery on April 23, 2007 in New York City.  (Photo by Evan Agostini\/Getty Images) *** Local Caption *** Donna Karen&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1177370370&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;2007 Getty Images&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;73936274BM012_Free_Arts_8th&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"donna\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/donna.jpg?fit=260%2C400&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-765\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/donna.jpg?w=125\" alt=\"\"  srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/donna.jpg?w=260&amp;ssl=1 260w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/donna.jpg?resize=195%2C300&amp;ssl=1 195w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 260px) 100vw, 260px\" \/><\/a><a title=\"who's next?! (photo: katherine lam)\" href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/who.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"766\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?attachment_id=766\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/who.jpg?fit=260%2C400&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"260,400\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;3.1&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;EX-Z80&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1223298248&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;6.3&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;200&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.166666666667&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"who\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/who.jpg?fit=260%2C400&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-766\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/who.jpg?w=125\" alt=\"\"  srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/who.jpg?w=260&amp;ssl=1 260w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/who.jpg?resize=195%2C300&amp;ssl=1 195w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 260px) 100vw, 260px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong><em>the wrong:<\/em><\/strong><em>\u00a0waiting for the next fashion\u00a0saviour\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<p>people are always looking for the next donna, the next ralph, or the next calvin. (sorry tommy, we never consider you a fashion designer) but no one ever\u00a0acknowledge that there may not be a next big fashion business bearing a designer&#8217;s name. consider this: after the big 3, name another designer with his\/her business over 1 billion dollars.\u00a0the answer is: 0. it&#8217;s very typical of fashion to prefer the system to remain unchanged.<\/p>\n<p>let&#8217;s look at new york. marc? his business is tiny comparing to lv. micheal kors? those old tommy business guys, lawrence and silas, brought kors 6 years ago and proclaimed it will be a billion dollar business. they are stuck at the middle. our personal favorite\u00a0narciso rodriguez? liz\u00a0claiborne brought 50% for a mere 10 million, then return it back to the designer late last year. we assume for much less. then we have those wunderkind kids one after another; remember zack? what about jeffery chow? it&#8217;s ok, because now we have the wangs and the wus. but would they be like calvin?<\/p>\n<p>yes, some designers would claim that they would like to remain small and &#8216;intimate&#8217;. fine, but you should also know that we are some of the most egotistical creatures. we want fame, money, and sway, in that order. to drive any real influence, one will need to reach the mass (say hi to issac mizrahi). to do that, you need cold hard cash. a billion of it.<\/p>\n<p>what companies blew up so big in the part 10 years? juicy. seven. zara. h&amp;m.<\/p>\n<p>can we see a pattern and the future here?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>the wrong:\u00a0waiting for the next fashion\u00a0saviour\u00a0 people are always looking for the next donna, the next ralph, or the next calvin. (sorry tommy, we never consider you a fashion designer) but no one ever\u00a0acknowledge that there may not be a next big fashion business bearing a designer&#8217;s name. consider this: after the big 3, name [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[19],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-753","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-the-wrong"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/pp6zn-c9","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":91,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=91","url_meta":{"origin":753,"position":0},"title":"shanghai &#038; fashion","author":"deacon","date":"10 Dec 08","format":false,"excerpt":"during my trip to shanghai last week, i was curious to see the local fashion creations. by chance, i found them on both change le lu and xin le lu. names like even penniless, liu2, na(too), ne!ther nor (onebyone), estune, jade en plus are all part of the emerging scene.\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;the wrong&quot;","block_context":{"text":"the wrong","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=19"},"img":{"alt_text":"shanghai-t","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/12\/shanghai-t.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1315,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=1315","url_meta":{"origin":753,"position":1},"title":"stop copying!","author":"deacon","date":"11 Jul 10","format":false,"excerpt":"the wrong: copy blindly & stupidly once upon a time in new york, all you had to do to build a fashion business was to copy the french couture houses. you took the ferry across the atlantic ocean, tried to get into the shows, found the exact knockoff patterns, went\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;the wrong&quot;","block_context":{"text":"the wrong","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=19"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/06\/byd-logo-before.jpg?fit=730%2C537&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/06\/byd-logo-before.jpg?fit=730%2C537&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/06\/byd-logo-before.jpg?fit=730%2C537&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/06\/byd-logo-before.jpg?fit=730%2C537&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":56,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=56","url_meta":{"origin":753,"position":2},"title":"out of time and out of touch","author":"deacon","date":"27 Nov 08","format":false,"excerpt":"next to the ceos, the pr department should be the first one to be fired.\u00a0the american auto big (ego) 3 were begging for money from the government for a bailout, and the 3 ceos had to fly there by 3 different private jets? they couldn't share 1 plane? they couldn't\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;the wrong&quot;","block_context":{"text":"the wrong","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=19"},"img":{"alt_text":"detroit","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/11\/detroit-t.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1214,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=1214","url_meta":{"origin":753,"position":3},"title":"heroes &#038; the time","author":"deacon","date":"22 Jun 10","format":false,"excerpt":"the right: being creative... in the business side the heroes shape the time, or the time shapes the heroes? in the case of fashion, i would definitely say it is the latter. coco chanel once pronounced: \u201ci set the fashion for a quarter of a century. why? because i knew\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;the right&quot;","block_context":{"text":"the right","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=18"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/robert-duffy1.jpg?fit=718%2C1000&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/robert-duffy1.jpg?fit=718%2C1000&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/robert-duffy1.jpg?fit=718%2C1000&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/robert-duffy1.jpg?fit=718%2C1000&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":949,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=949","url_meta":{"origin":753,"position":4},"title":"knock-off offender: coach 3","author":"deacon","date":"12 May 09","format":false,"excerpt":"the wrong: knocking of the soul of another brand we really don't mean to pick on coach, but they provide such good materials. even thought hermes was found in 1837 as a\u00a0saddle shop by thiery herm\u00e8s, the\u00a0carriage and horse logo and well-known orange\u00a0herm\u00e8s\u00a0boxes weren't introduced until 1951, when the company\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;the wrong&quot;","block_context":{"text":"the wrong","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=19"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/05\/coach-logo.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":729,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=729","url_meta":{"origin":753,"position":5},"title":"essay: fashion, art and entertainment &#8211; isaac mizrahi 1.0","author":"deacon","date":"13 Mar 09","format":false,"excerpt":"After a long break from fashion, Isaac is back and strong for a few years, first with Target and now Liz\u00a0 Claiborne. That\u2019s the 2.0 version. Let\u2019s revisit my paper written in the late 90\u2019s. \u00a0 INTRODUCTION This essay is about how fashion design related to the issues of art\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;the past&quot;","block_context":{"text":"the past","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=11"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/753","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=753"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/753\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":771,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/753\/revisions\/771"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=753"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=753"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=753"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}