{"id":1214,"date":"2010-06-22T20:15:24","date_gmt":"2010-06-22T12:15:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/?p=1214"},"modified":"2010-07-06T21:07:55","modified_gmt":"2010-07-06T13:07:55","slug":"%e8%8b%b1%e9%9b%84-%e6%99%82%e5%8b%a2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=1214","title":{"rendered":"heroes & the time"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

the right:<\/strong> being creative… in the business side<\/em><\/p>\n

the heroes shape the time, or the time shapes the heroes?<\/p>\n

in the case of fashion, i would definitely say it is the latter. coco chanel once pronounced: \u201ci set the fashion for a quarter of a century. why? because i knew how to express my own time.\u201d since the best fashion always reflects its period, the great designers were mostly shaped and determined by their time and environment. chanel liberated women with jersey, with the little black dress, etc. christian dior gave women the new look. yves saint laurent empowered women with his le smoking tuxedo suit. none would be possible if they did not realize their time and place in fashion with regards to their social period.<\/p>\n

what else is essential to become a great fashion designer? creativity? a great point of view? a handsome face? good relationships with the press? yes to all of the above, but the most important is the right business partner \u2013 a fashion ceo with a capital f. it is not just any ceos; she\/he has to love<\/em> fashion more than cash. understanding of the long-term nature of identity building and the intangibles of a designers\u2019 brand is a must, while never loses sight of the company\u2019s balance sheet. absent of an ego is imperative to co-exist with designers who egoistic being one of the defining quality. in this business, communication skill has to be second nature: the fceo has to be able to communicate as easily and flawlessly as breathing. she\/he is like the king of its world but ultimately serves its queer (correction: queen). it really could be done: pierre berg\u00e9 to yves saint laurent. barry k. schwartz to calvin klein. domenico de sole to tom ford. robert duffy to marc jacobs.<\/p>\n

those are qualities that are not exactly second nature for our chinese people; none of our ancient kings severed their queen. teamwork is fine as long as she\/he is the cristiano ronaldo of the real madrid. is it a surprise that none of our national teams consisted of more than 2 people succeeded in the beijing olympics? it is really hard to find good fashion management talents, just like it is hard to find someone to play defenders on our national soccer team. every one wants to score those gorgeous and glamorous goals, but no one is willing to do the dirty work and play the under-appreciated defense.<\/p>\n

the irony is: the part that really needs creativity is the business side of fashion. coach turned itself from a manufacturing business to a marketing business offering \u201caffordable\u201d luxury with great timing. zara got creative on their logistics to create amazing value for their customers. h&m practically invented fast fashion. polo paved the way for lifestyle fashion. calvin klein owned the underwear and fragrance business with his ads. duffy once said on twitter: \u201cmarc is the dreamer; it\u2019s my job to make it a reality.\u201d he accomplished that creatively, and more. we need more people like that for fashion design to flourish in china.<\/p>\n

(first published in the jun. 2010 issue of his life magazine)<\/p>\n

\u82f1\u96c4\u9020\u6642\u52e2, \u6216\u662f\u6642\u52e2\u9020\u82f1\u96c4?<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u65f6\u5c1a\u754c\u53d1\u751f\u7684\u90a3\u4e9b\u5947\u8ff9\uff0c\u5f52\u6839\u5230\u5e95\u90fd\u662f\u201c\u597d\u65f6\u673a\u201d\u7684\u4ea7\u7269\u3002\u9999\u5948\u513f\u5973\u58eb\u66fe\u7ecf\u8bf4\uff1a\u201c\u6211\u6210\u4e3a\u8fd1\u534a\u4e2a\u4e16\u7eaa\u4eba\u4eec\u8ba4\u53ef\u7684\u65f6\u5c1a\u5076\u50cf\uff0c\u4e3a\u4ec0\u4e48\uff1f\u56e0\u4e3a\u6211\u61c2\u5f97\u5584\u4e8e\u65f6\u4ee3\u3002\u201d\u4e8e\u662f\uff0c\u751f\u547d\u529b\u6700\u957f\u4e45\u7684\u6d41\u884c\u8d8b\u52bf\u603b\u662f\u4f20\u8fbe\u65f6\u4ee3\u7684\u58f0\u97f3\uff0c\u4f1f\u5927\u7684\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u4eec\u7684\u4f5c\u54c1\u5927\u591a\u7531\u4ed6\u4eec\u6240\u5904\u7684\u65f6\u95f4\u548c\u73af\u5883\u51b3\u5b9a\u7684\u3002\u9999\u5948\u5c14\u547c\u5e94\u5987\u5973\u89e3\u653e\u7684\u7403\u8863\u4e0e\u9ed1\u8272\u5c0f\u793c\u670d\u3001\u8fea\u5965\u7ed9\u4e88\u5987s\u5973\u65b0\u9762\u8c8c\u7684\u201cnew look\u201d\u3001\u4f0a\u592b\u2022\u5723\u7f57\u5170\u4e0e\u4ed6\u7684\u6743\u529b\u897f\u88c5\u71d5\u5c3e\u670d\u548c\u5438\u70df\u88c5\u3002\u6b66\u65ad\u5730\u8bf4\uff0c\u5018\u82e5\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u4eec\u5bf9\u4ed6\u4eec\u6240\u5904\u7684\u793e\u4f1a\u5f62\u6001\u6beb\u65e0\u611f\u77e5\uff0c\u8fd9\u4e9b\u6210\u529f\u90fd\u5c06\u7070\u98de\u70df\u706d\u3002<\/p>\n

\u8fd8\u6709\u54ea\u4e9b\u56e0\u7d20\u662f\u6210\u4e3a\u4e00\u4e2a\u4f1f\u5927\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u7684\u6761\u4ef6\uff1f\u521b\u610f\uff1f\u826f\u597d\u7684\u89c6\u89c9\u526a\u88c1\uff1f\u4e00\u5f20\u7f8e\u4e3d\u7684\u6a21\u7279\u8138\uff1f\u51fa\u8272\u7684\u5ba3\u4f20\uff1f\u5f53\u7136\u57fa\u4e8e\u4e0a\u8ff0\u56e0\u7d20\u5916\uff0c\u66f4\u91cd\u8981\u7684\u662f\u9009\u5bf9\u5546\u4e1a\u5408\u4f5c\u4f19\u4f34\u2014\u2014\u4ed6\u4e00\u5b9a\u8981\u5bf9\u65f6\u5c1a\u72c2\u70ed\uff0c\u800c\u975e\u91d1\u94b1\u3002\u7406\u89e3\u5e76\u652f\u6301\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u7684\u8868\u8fbe\uff0c\u540c\u65f6\u5e2e\u52a9\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u5efa\u7acb\u957f\u4e45\u53d1\u5c55\u7684\u4e2a\u4eba\u98ce\u683c\uff0c\u4f46\u53c8\u80fd\u4fdd\u8bc1\u8d22\u52a1\u65b9\u9762\u7684\u5e73\u8861\u5e76\u4e14\u63a7\u5236\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u5929\u9a6c\u884c\u7a7a\u7684\u8868\u8fbe\u88ab\u786e\u5b9a\u5728\u4e00\u4e2a\u6807\u51c6\u3002\u5728\u8fd9\u4e2a\u884c\u4e1a\uff0c\u793e\u4ea4\u4e0e\u4f20\u64ad\u80fd\u529b\u5df2\u6210\u4e3a\u6210\u529f\u4e0e\u5426\u7684\u7b2c\u4e8c\u8003\u91cf\uff1a\u4f5c\u4e3a\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u80cc\u540e\u7684\u91d1\u4e3b\uff0c\u4ed6\u5fc5\u987b\u8ba9\u5404\u4e2a\u751f\u4ea7\u3001\u8bbe\u8ba1\u3001\u552e\u5356\u7684\u73af\u8282\u987a\u7545\u81ea\u5982\u3002\u4ed6\u662f\u4e16\u754c\u4e4b\u738b\uff0c\u4f46\u6700\u7ec8\u670d\u52a1\u7684\u738b\u540e\uff08\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\uff09\u3002\u4e00\u4e9b\u6210\u529f\u7684\u699c\u6837\u53ef\u4ee5\u8bf4\u660e\u95ee\u9898\uff1apierre berg\u00e9\u4e4b\u4e8eyves saint laurent\u3001barry k. schwartz\u4e4b\u4e8ecalvin klein\u3001domenico de sole\u4e4b\u4e8etom ford\u2026\u2026<\/p>\n

\u6709\u8da3\u7684\u662f\uff0c\u8fd9\u4e9b\u90fd\u662f\u7d20\u8d28\u5e76\u4e0d\u5b8c\u5168\u9002\u7528\u4e8e\u4e2d\u56fd\uff1a\u5728\u6211\u4eec\u7684\u5386\u53f2\u4e2d\uff0c\u5f88\u5c11\u6709\u7687\u5e1d\u81e3\u670d\u4e8e\u7687\u540e\u7684\u4f8b\u5b50\u3002\u4f60\u4e5f\u5f88\u96be\u89c1\u5230\u50cfc.\u7f57\u4e0e\u7687\u5bb6\u9a6c\u5fb7\u91cc\u8fd9\u6837\u5b8c\u7f8e\u65e0\u6687\u7684\u7ec4\u5408\u3002\u6211\u4eec\u7684\u56fd\u5bb6\u5f88\u5c11\u6709\u53cc\u4eba\u7ec4\u5408\u5728\u5965\u8fd0\u4f1a\u4e0a\u593a\u51a0\uff0c\u4e5f\u5f88\u96be\u627e\u5230\u597d\u7684\u56e2\u961f\u5408\u4f5c\u7684\u4f8b\u5b50\uff0c\u770b\u770b\u4e2d\u56fd\u7537\u8db3\u7684\u8868\u73b0\u5c31\u80fd\u89e3\u91ca\u6211\u4eec\u5728\u65f6\u5c1a\u4e8b\u4e1a\u4e0a\u7684\u5931\u8d25\u3002\u6bcf\u4e2a\u4eba\u90fd\u4e3a\u81ea\u5df1\u8bbe\u5b9a\u4e86\u534e\u4e3d\u800c\u8ff7\u4eba\u7684\u76ee\u6807\uff0c\u4f46\u6ca1\u6709\u4eba\u613f\u610f\u505a\u7684\u80cc\u540e\u7684\u5de5\u4f5c\u66f4\u6ca1\u6709\u4eba\u7ed9\u4e88\u821e\u53f0\u80cc\u540e\u7684\u4eba\u6b23\u8d4f\u3002<\/p>\n

\u5177\u6709\u8bbd\u523a\u610f\u5473\u7684\u662f\uff1a\u51fa\u8272\u8bbe\u8ba1\u4e4b\u5916\u771f\u6b63\u9700\u8981\u7684\u90e8\u5206\u662f\u7ecf\u8425\u3002\u201ccoach\u201d\u5728\u4e00\u4e2a\u7cbe\u51c6\u7684\u65f6\u673a\u5c06\u81ea\u5df1\u5de5\u5382\u5316\u7684\u5236\u9020\u6253\u9020\u6210\u4e70\u5f97\u8d77\u7684\u5962\u4f88\u3002zara\u901a\u8fc7\u6539\u9020\u5962\u4f88\u5927\u724c\u7684\u521b\u610f\u8d62\u5f97\u8ffd\u6c42\u65f6\u5c1a\u7684\u767d\u9886\uff0ch&m\u7684\u5e73\u4ef7\u65f6\u5c1a\u51e0\u4e4e\u6a2a\u626b\u4e2d\u56fd\u96f6\u552e\u4e1a\u3002\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u6709\u68a6\u60f3\uff0c\u8fd8\u9700\u8981\u7ecf\u8425\u8005\u6765\u5e2e\u52a9\u4ed6\u4eec\u9020\u68a6\uff0c\u4e2d\u56fd\u65f6\u5c1a\u7684\u5f31\u70b9\u6e05\u6670\u660e\u4e86\uff0c\u4e00\u4e2a\u8bf8\u845b\u4eae\u9876\u4e0d\u8fc7\u4e09\u4e2a\u81ed\u76ae\u5320\u3002<\/p>\n

(\u7b2c\u4e00\u6b21\u53d1\u8868: 2010\u5e746\u6708\u00a0\u4ed6\u7684\u751f\u6d3b\u6742\u5fd7.\u00a0\u7ffb\u8bd1: \u6731\u5a77\u5a77<\/a>.)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

the right: being creative… in the business side the heroes shape the time, or the time shapes the heroes? in the case of fashion, i would definitely say it is the latter. coco chanel once pronounced: \u201ci set the fashion for a quarter of a century. why? because i knew how to express my own […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1218,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[18],"tags":[69,74,33,24,70,51,52,75,38,73,37,68,71,72,76],"class_list":["post-1214","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-the-right","tag-barry-schwartz","tag-calvin-klein","tag-china-fashion-market","tag-coach","tag-domenico-de-sole","tag-fashion-ceo","tag-fashion-designer","tag-hm","tag-marc-jacobs","tag-pierre-berge","tag-ralph-lauren","tag-robert-duffy","tag-tom-ford","tag-yves-saint-laurent","tag-zara"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/robert-duffy1.jpg?fit=718%2C1000&ssl=1","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/pp6zn-jA","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":488,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=488","url_meta":{"origin":1214,"position":0},"title":"aesthetics","author":"deacon","date":"28 Oct 08","format":false,"excerpt":"all respected designers not only reflect his\/her times, but they also push through a new aesthetics creatively and commercially. think nicolas ghesquiere, rei kawakubo, halston, yves saint laurent, balenciaga, coco chanel,....","rel":"","context":"In "reminders"","block_context":{"text":"reminders","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=14"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":137,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=137","url_meta":{"origin":1214,"position":1},"title":"vogue fading out of vogue?","author":"deacon","date":"2 Jan 09","format":false,"excerpt":"the new york times fashion critic cathy horyn is always insightful and inspirational. here is her take on the rumor of miss wintour being replaced at american vogue: http:\/\/www.iht.com\/articles\/2009\/01\/01\/style\/01anna.php seeing though the juicy speculation, miss horyn managed to add depth to it. there is grace mirabella's observation that we've \"got\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "the wrong"","block_context":{"text":"the wrong","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=19"},"img":{"alt_text":"editors","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/01\/editors.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":408,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=408","url_meta":{"origin":1214,"position":2},"title":"the revenge of alber elbaz","author":"deacon","date":"27 Jan 09","format":false,"excerpt":"yves saint laurent not only left us with lots of revolutionary fashion ideas, but also made sure we are in good hands by handpicking then-little known hedi slimane to continue his menswear and alber elbaz to carry on with his womenswear. we all know that elf sanafi sold ysl to\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "the past"","block_context":{"text":"the past","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=11"},"img":{"alt_text":"ysl-pop-art-t","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/01\/ysl-pop-art-t.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1142,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=1142","url_meta":{"origin":1214,"position":3},"title":"a view on mens fashion","author":"deacon","date":"27 Jan 10","format":false,"excerpt":"the wrong: using the same idea on the wrong context product design, music, fashion, architecture, and movies. which one of the above does not belong in the same group? (hints: music is about emotions. movies are about experiences. product design is about function. architecture is about belonging. fashion is about\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "the wrong"","block_context":{"text":"the wrong","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=19"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/01\/marcjacobs-skirt.jpg?fit=500%2C733&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":343,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=343","url_meta":{"origin":1214,"position":4},"title":"why coco chanel might be responsible for streetwear…","author":"deacon","date":"22 Jan 09","format":false,"excerpt":"t-shirt is a staple of streetwear. it's hard to imagine streetwear could exist without it. i mean, could you see all the street kids just wearing a cap and a shirt with jeans? t-shirt is made from cotton jersey (named for the island of 'jersey', between england and france). the\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "the past"","block_context":{"text":"the past","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=11"},"img":{"alt_text":"coco chanel","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/01\/coco-chanel.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1095,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=1095","url_meta":{"origin":1214,"position":5},"title":"the power of branding","author":"deacon","date":"13 Jul 09","format":false,"excerpt":"a picture is worth a thousand words","rel":"","context":"In "the past"","block_context":{"text":"the past","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=11"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1214","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1214"}],"version-history":[{"count":23,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1214\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1240,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1214\/revisions\/1240"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1218"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1214"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1214"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1214"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}