{"id":1177,"date":"2010-03-08T17:51:37","date_gmt":"2010-03-08T09:51:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/?p=1177"},"modified":"2010-06-22T20:32:48","modified_gmt":"2010-06-22T12:32:48","slug":"to-fashion-designers-everywhere","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=1177","title":{"rendered":"to fashion designers everywhere:"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

last time we talked about the troubles of fashion design in china. now, let\u2019s look at the universal problems of fashion design in the world.<\/p>\n

charles frederick worth is widely considered to be the first designer to have his label sewn onto his garments in the late 1800\u2019s. that means the existence of fashion designers are only about 100 years old. it is not inconceivable that fashion designers could be rendered obsolete in our lifetime, much like a typesetter or a bus ticket collector. at the very least, the relevance is being lessened by the modern phenomenon of celebrity; lindsay lohan is in charge of emanuel ungaro (anyone really believe the spanish designer estrella archs call the creative shots should have their heads examined). sara jessica parker is heading up the new halston heritage line in more ways than one, being the chief creative officer, as well as the president, and was given an equity stake in the company. let\u2019s not forget about kanye west.<\/p>\n

what should a designer do? well, i would concentrate on fashion and design. forget about marketing, the future is all about products. an identity formed by great merchandizes will stand the test of time.<\/p>\n

for a brief period of time in \u201999, i was the stylist assistant of alex white of w magazine so that i can learn a few things about the press. (i wasn\u2019t the only one figured that out: alexander wang interned at teen vogue and thakoon panichgul was a writer for harper’s bazaar in the late 90\u2019s.) one time, there was a mixed up for an outfit in the closet and another editor threw a fit to the point that i was yelled at by bridget foley. all i could think of was that all the new york designers\u2019 works looked all the same. once the labels came off, there was no way i can tell which jacket is from which \u201cbig-time\u201d designer. sure enough, i started looking for any outfit without a label and voil\u00e0<\/em> i found it. that\u2019s when i realized the important of the identity of a design house. you know that is a helmet lang, a balenciaga, or a mcqueen when you see one.<\/p>\n

i see many newcomers with whole collections and their fashion shows. first, it is a waste of their limited resources \u2013 most of them will run out of energy with the shows and have nothing left for sales, marketing and logistics, stuffs that actually support a business. second, times are different now. renaissance men belong to\u2026. the renaissance. what is needed now is expertise. for watches? rolex. for leather accessories? hermes. for trench? burburry.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

a good example is aitor throup. he is a known designer worked with c.p. company on the updated mille miglia jacket and with umbro on new soccer outfits. but for his own debut collection this season, it is only about the \u201clegs\u201d – 38 pairs of trousers were dressed on carefully crafted sculptures and suspended from the ceiling in a gallery space in paris. by concentrating on pants, he is saying more about the contemporary menswear than the lv men show by his expertise on structure and process.<\/p>\n

let your works speak for yourself.<\/p>\n

(first published in the mar. 2010 issue of his life magazine)<\/p>\n

\u4e86\u4e0d\u8d77\u7684\u201c\u6807\u7b7e\u201d<\/p>\n

\u4e0a\u6b21\u6211\u8bf4\u5230\u4e86\u4e2d\u56fd\u670d\u88c5\u8bbe\u8ba1\u754c\u5b58\u5728\u7684\u56f0\u96be\uff0c\u8fd9\u6b21\u8ba9\u6211\u4eec\u770b\u4e00\u770b\u5168\u7403\u670d\u88c5\u754c\u5171\u540c\u62e5\u6709\u7684\u95ee\u9898\u3002<\/p>\n

1800\u5e74\u672b\uff0ccharles frederick worth\u88ab\u8ba4\u4e3a\u662f\u7b2c\u4e00\u4f4d\u628a\u54c1\u724c\u5546\u6807\u7f1d\u5236\u5728\u81ea\u5df1\u670d\u88c5\u4e0a\u7684\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u3002\u6362\u53e5\u8bdd\u8bf4\uff0c\u670d\u88c5\u8bbe\u8ba1\u54c1\u724c\u7684\u5b58\u5728\u53ea\u6709100\u591a\u5e74\u3002\u5927\u80c6\u7684\u8bf4\uff0c\u5728\u6211\u4eec\u7684\u6709\u751f\u4e4b\u5e74\uff0c\u670d\u88c5\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u8fd9\u4e2a\u6982\u5ff5\u7684\u5b58\u5728\u4f1a\u8fc7\u65f6\u751a\u81f3\u88ab\u4ee3\u66ff\u4e5f\u4e0d\u5947\u602a\uff0c\u5c31\u597d\u6bd4\u4e00\u4f4d\u6392\u5b57\u5de5\u4eba\u6216\u516c\u4ea4\u8f66\u6536\u7968\u5458\u6162\u6162\u5730\u5728\u88ab\u6dd8\u6c70\u3002\u660e\u661f\u7684\u5b58\u5728\u9010\u6e10\u7684\u5728\u51cf\u5f31\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u7684\u91cd\u8981\u6027\u5c31\u8bc1\u660e\u4e86\u8fd9\u4e00\u70b9\u3002lindsay lohan\u5728\u8d1f\u8d23\u670d\u88c5\u54c1\u724cemanuel ungaro\u7684\u8bbe\u8ba1\uff08\u897f\u73ed\u7259\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08estrella archs\u65e9\u5df2\u4e0d\u518d\u53d1\u53f7\u65bd\u4ee4\uff09\u3002sara jessica parker\u5728\u7387\u9886halston heritage\u7cfb\u5217\u7684\u6bcf\u4e00\u4e2a\u73af\u8282\uff0c\u5979\u4e0d\u4f46\u662f\u4e3b\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u4e5f\u62c5\u4efb\u4e86\u603b\u7ecf\u7406\u7684\u4f4d\u7f6e\uff0c\u540c\u65f6\u62e5\u6709\u8be5\u516c\u53f8\u7684\u80a1\u6743\u3002\u6211\u4eec\u4e5f\u522b\u5fd8\u4e86kanye west\u3002<\/p>\n

\u90a3\u4e48\u4e00\u4f4d\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u8be5\u505a\u4e9b\u4ec0\u4e48\u5462\uff1f\u6211\u4f1a\u628a\u6ce8\u610f\u529b\u653e\u5728\u65f6\u88c5\u548c\u8bbe\u8ba1\u4e0a\u3002\u4e0d\u8981\u53bb\u5fe7\u8651\u63a8\u9500\uff0c\u672a\u6765\u662f\u5c5e\u4e8e\u4ea7\u54c1\u7684\u3002\u4f18\u826f\u7684\u4ea7\u54c1\u624d\u610f\u5473\u7740\u54c1\u724c\u7684\u6210\u529f\u548c\u6c38\u4e45\u6027\u3002<\/p>\n

\u57281999\u5e74\u7684\u77ed\u6682\u7684\u4e00\u6bb5\u65f6\u95f4\u91cc\uff0c\u6211\u66fe\u7ecf\u4e3a\u300aw\u300b\u6742\u5fd7\u7684alex white\u5f53\u8fc7\u65f6\u88c5\u52a9\u7406\uff0c\u4e3a\u4e86\u8fd1\u4e00\u6b65\u4e86\u89e3\u5a92\u4f53\u7684\u8fd0\u8f6c\uff08\u6211\u4e0d\u662f\u552f\u4e00\u6709\u8fd9\u5ff5\u5934\u7684\u4eba\uff1aalexander wang\u66fe\u7ecf\u5728\u300ateen vogue\u300b\u4f5c\u8fc7\u5b9e\u4e60\u751f\uff0cthakoon panichgul\u4e5f\u66fe\u572890\u5e74\u4ee3\u672b\u7ed9\u300aharper\u2019s bazaar\u300b\u5199\u8fc7\u7a3f\u5b50\uff09\u3002\u8fd8\u8bb0\u5f97\u6709\u4e00\u6b21\u5728\u62cd\u6444\u73b0\u573a\u4e0a\u51fa\u73b0\u4e86\u670d\u88c5\u4e0a\u7684\u6df7\u4e71\uff0cbridget foley\u51b2\u7740\u6211\u9a82\u4e86\u8d77\u6765\u3002\u5f53\u65f6\u6211\u8111\u5b50\u91cc\u53ea\u80fd\u60f3\u7684\u662f\u7ebd\u7ea6\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u7684\u4f5c\u54c1\u770b\u4e0a\u53bb\u5168\u4e00\u6a21\u4e00\u6837\u3002\u4e00\u4f46\u628a\u54c1\u724c\u7684\u5546\u6807\u64a4\u4e0b\u6765\uff0c\u6211\u65e0\u6cd5\u8bc6\u522b\u54ea\u4e00\u4ef6\u5939\u514b\u662f\u54ea\u4e00\u4f4d\u5927\u5e08\u7684\u4f5c\u54c1\u3002\u6211\u7ffb\u6765\u8986\u53bb\u5730\u53bb\u627e\u6ca1\u6709\u5546\u6807\u7684\u8863\u670d\uff0c\u679c\u7136\u627e\u5230\u4e86\u90a3\u4ef6\u5939\u514b\u3002\u8fd9\u8ba9\u6211\u9886\u609f\u5230\uff0c\u4e00\u4e2a\u8bbe\u8ba1\u56e2\u4f53\u62e5\u6709\u7740\u72ec\u81ea\u4ee3\u8868\u6027\u7684\u98ce\u683c\u662f\u4ef6\u591a\u4e48\u91cd\u8981\u7684\u4e8b\u60c5\u3002\u4e00\u773c\u770b\u5230\u4f60\u5c31\u77e5\u9053\u90a3\u662fhelmet lang\u3001balenciaga\u6216mcqueen\u3002<\/p>\n

\u6211\u7ecf\u5e38\u770b\u5230\u65b0\u4eba\u82b1\u8d39\u5927\u91cf\u7684\u65f6\u95f4\u5728\u65f6\u88c5\u79c0\u4e0a\u5c55\u73b0\u4ed6\u4eec\u7684\u65b0\u7cfb\u5217\u3002\u9996\u5148\uff0c\u8fd9\u5c31\u662f\u5728\u6d6a\u8d39\u81ea\u5df1\u7684\u65f6\u95f4\u548c\u8d44\u6e90\u2014\u2014\u5927\u90e8\u5206\u7684\u4eba\u90fd\u4f1a\u8017\u5c3d\u7cbe\u795e\uff0c\u65e0\u6cd5\u53bb\u5b8c\u6210\u9500\u552e\u3001\u5e02\u573a\u548c\u7269\u6d41\uff0c\u8fd9\u4e9b\u652f\u6491\u4ea7\u4e1a\u8fd0\u8f6c\u7684\u73af\u8282\u3002\u5176\u6b21\uff0c\u65f6\u4ee3\u5728\u53d8\uff0c\u6587\u827a\u590d\u5174\u7684\u4eba\u5c5e\u4e8e\u6587\u827a\u590d\u5174\u7684\u65f6\u4ee3\uff0c\u800c\u5f53\u4eca\u9700\u8981\u7684\u662f\u4e13\u4e1a\u77e5\u8bc6\u3002\u8981\u8868\uff1f\u6709rolex\u3002\u76ae\u9769\u914d\u4ef6\uff1fherm\u00e8s\u3002\u98ce\u8863\uff1fburburry\u3002<\/p>\n

\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08aitor throup\u5c31\u662f\u4e00\u4e2a\u5f88\u597d\u7684\u4f8b\u5b50\u3002\u4ed6\u66fe\u7ecf\u8bbe\u8ba1\u8fc7c.p. company\u7684mille miglia\u5939\u514b\u548cumbro\u7684\u8db3\u7403\u670d\u88c5\u7cfb\u5217\u3002\u81f3\u4e8e\u4ed6\u81ea\u5df1\u9996\u6b21\u4eae\u76f8\u7684\u670d\u88c5\u7cfb\u5217\uff0c\u79f0\u4e3a\u201c\u892a\u201d\u7cfb\u5217\u2014\u201438\u6761\u88e4\u5b50\u88ab\u7a7f\u5728\u7cbe\u5fc3\u6253\u9020\u8fc7\u7684\u96d5\u5851\u4e0a\u9762\uff0c\u5e76\u7531\u7ef3\u7d22\u60ac\u7a7a\u5782\u9493\u7740\u5728\u5df4\u9ece\u7684\u4e00\u4e2a\u827a\u672f\u5eca\u91cc\u3002\u628a\u6ce8\u610f\u529b\u5b8c\u5168\u805a\u96c6\u5728\u88e4\u5b50\u4e0a\uff0c\u6bd4\u8d77lv\u7684\u7537\u88c5\u79c0\uff0c\u4ed6\u66f4\u80fd\u4ece\u7ed3\u6784\u548c\u5de5\u827a\u7684\u4e13\u4e1a\u89d2\u5ea6\u4e0a\u4f53\u73b0\u51fa\u5f53\u4ee3\u7537\u88c5\u7684\u6838\u5fc3\u3002<\/p>\n

(\u7b2c\u4e00\u6b21\u53d1\u8868: 2010\u5e743\u6708\u00a0\u4ed6\u7684\u751f\u6d3b\u6742\u5fd7.\u00a0\u7ffb\u8bd1: joe wang.)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

last time we talked about the troubles of fashion design in china. now, let\u2019s look at the universal problems of fashion design in the world. charles frederick worth is widely considered to be the first designer to have his label sewn onto his garments in the late 1800\u2019s. that means the existence of fashion designers […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1190,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[14,17],"tags":[63],"class_list":["post-1177","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-reminders","category-the-future","tag-aitor-throup"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/aitorthroup2.png?fit=720%2C479&ssl=1","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/pp6zn-iZ","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":1064,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=1064","url_meta":{"origin":1177,"position":0},"title":"designers’ musical chairs","author":"deacon","date":"23 Jun 09","format":false,"excerpt":"we have been compiling a helpful designer list of who's-in and who's-out of all the major fashion houses with their ceos and their parent companies for the past 6 months. it is in .html format for your cut-and-paste\u00a0convenience. alternatively, you can open the 'information' tab on the right sidebar and\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "the past"","block_context":{"text":"the past","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=11"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/06\/designerslist.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":193,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=193","url_meta":{"origin":1177,"position":1},"title":"furniture & fashion","author":"deacon","date":"21 Oct 08","format":false,"excerpt":"fashion designers are control freaks. their working studio\u2019s interior and the choices of furniture are all part of their regulated world. in time, it becomes the inspiration. hussein chalayan first raised the relationship between furniture and fashion in his fall\/winter 2000 'afterwords' collection. the runway was constructed like a room.\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "the past"","block_context":{"text":"the past","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=11"},"img":{"alt_text":"chalayan-fw00-1-t","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.dailydozencreative.com\/weblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/10\/chalayan-fw00-1-t.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":729,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=729","url_meta":{"origin":1177,"position":2},"title":"essay: fashion, art and entertainment – isaac mizrahi 1.0","author":"deacon","date":"13 Mar 09","format":false,"excerpt":"After a long break from fashion, Isaac is back and strong for a few years, first with Target and now Liz\u00a0 Claiborne. That\u2019s the 2.0 version. Let\u2019s revisit my paper written in the late 90\u2019s. \u00a0 INTRODUCTION This essay is about how fashion design related to the issues of art\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "the past"","block_context":{"text":"the past","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=11"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":753,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=753","url_meta":{"origin":1177,"position":3},"title":"the next calvin?","author":"deacon","date":"20 Mar 09","format":false,"excerpt":"the wrong:\u00a0waiting for the next fashion\u00a0saviour\u00a0 people are always looking for the next donna, the next ralph, or the next calvin. (sorry tommy, we never consider you a fashion designer) but no one ever\u00a0acknowledge that there may not be a next big fashion business bearing a designer's name. consider this:\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "the wrong"","block_context":{"text":"the wrong","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=19"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":828,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=828","url_meta":{"origin":1177,"position":4},"title":"these soles got the right soul","author":"deacon","date":"27 Mar 09","format":false,"excerpt":"the right: don't lost sight of the dna of your company we were more of a black or white converse all-stars person. you will see tons of all-stars on the feet of chain-smoking designers on 7th avenue and 40th street in new york. you know them: they wear really expensive\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "the right"","block_context":{"text":"the right","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=18"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":1214,"url":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?p=1214","url_meta":{"origin":1177,"position":5},"title":"heroes & the time","author":"deacon","date":"22 Jun 10","format":false,"excerpt":"the right: being creative... in the business side the heroes shape the time, or the time shapes the heroes? in the case of fashion, i would definitely say it is the latter. coco chanel once pronounced: \u201ci set the fashion for a quarter of a century. why? because i knew\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "the right"","block_context":{"text":"the right","link":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/?cat=18"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/robert-duffy1.jpg?fit=718%2C1000&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/robert-duffy1.jpg?fit=718%2C1000&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/robert-duffy1.jpg?fit=718%2C1000&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/blog.deaconyu.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/robert-duffy1.jpg?fit=718%2C1000&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1177","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1177"}],"version-history":[{"count":13,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1177\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1310,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1177\/revisions\/1310"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1190"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1177"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1177"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.deaconyu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1177"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}